I’m not sure what it says about a Barossa winery when its most striking wine (out of the three provided by the U.S. importer) is a McLaren Vale Shiraz. Tait’s 2015 The Border Crossing Shiraz fits right into the house style of full-on ripeness and opulence, but it changes up the fruit profile to yield something brighter, fresher and loaded with cherry and red-berry fruit. Full-bodied, creamy and supple across the mid-palate, with a long, silky-tart finish, it’s a fine but different complement to the super bargains delivered by this Barossa-based producer.