Now there is a perfect example of a grand modern Chianti, one that rivals the most ambitiously scaled wines of the region. With terrific fruit extraction and an ample overlay of oak, La Leccia gives a first impression of considerable power. But after an hour or so of breathing, the soft attractive fruit beneath the tannic cloak begins to emerge. It’s a wine for more than just simple pasta and red sauce dishes—try it with roasts, stews and cheeses.