Cirelli’s white, loess-like soils seem to bring out the best in their Trebbiano fruit; indeed there’s an almost rose grapefruit character in the Trebbiano d’Abruzzo, one that’s been fermented in terracotta amphora. There’s a suggestion of overripe lemons, of drying hay. There’s great texture, of fleshy generosity; the presence of the Adriatic keenly felt in the wines sapidity. Pulsating.