St Emilion is famed for its limestone outcrops and caves, and Tour Baladoz is one of many properties whose former cellars lie beneath the vineyards, with the vine roots trailing in the cool air. Remarkably, this keeps the vineyards refreshed in dry vintages and stops them from being waterlogged in wet ones. Delicious rich, evolving red and black fruits with a hint of oak spice, powerful yet elegant, this is a serious dinner wine.