The Bolgheri DOC, on the western edge of Tuscany bordering the Tirrhenian sea, came to the world’s attention in the 1990s for its quality. The area’s exceptional climate is moderated by sea breezes, which impart a crispness and freshness to the wine, while the clay and sand soils allow white varieties like Vermentino to reach great heights of quality. Grapes come from densely planted vineyards that slope toward the sea in Bolgheri, Suvereto and Alta Maremma, and low yields produce wines with concentration and complexity. The Vermentino ferments in stainless steel tanks at controlled temperatures and then rests on the lees. The winemaker avoids malolactic fermentation to preserve the wine’s fresh, crisp fruit character and vibrant acidity. 90 POINTS