Label 5 Scotch 12 Year

90pts "Brillant" Jim Murray 2020 A lively nose full of kumquat, raspberry cream Swiss Roll and deft smoke, clean for a blend these days and with the precision of an Exocet the vanillas wallow in the icing sugar for a while before the vanillas at last appear just a little tang, but still soft and sweet; the smoke arrives, thin and apologetically at the very end, though the late spice is much bolder; one of the easiest drams you'll find this year with just enough complexity to lift in to the higher echelons.