We spend all summer telling you about the merits of Portuguese whites, but in the winter we sometimes forget to highlight all their awesome reds. World class red wines weren't always the norm there. They were the exception, especially in Dao (dah-oh) where, according to government decree, good fruit was mixed with bad fruit and then vinified at co-ops. A single currency and recent austerity measures notwithstanding, the EU has actually done some good things. Now, fruit growers can keep their best grapes and make the kind of wine that shows Dao's full potential. Grilos (crickets) Dao is a lovely blend of local favorites Touriga Nacional, Alfrocheiro, and Tinta Roriz made for cheap 'n ready drinking. As for price, there's no need to disclose it when bringing a bottle to someone's house. It'll be our secret.