Alice ‘Tajad’ Spumante Brut

Tajad means “blend” in local Veneto dialect, and this kind of blend of local varieties used to be the daily drinker in the Veneto. Tasting it makes one question the wisdom of abandoning those antique varieties for a single-minded, conformist focus on Glera. (Wine now must be at least 85% Glera to be labeled Prosecco.) Tajad shows a little spiciness, a touch of rusticity, and a lot of character. It makes you wish you could be standing at Nonna Alice’s bar, asking her for another glass.